For years, Titusz‘ Csilla Thackray has been cooking in other people’s kitchens. She helped shape the food program at Churchview Farm. Her influence has been deeply felt at Fet-Fisk, one of Pittsburgh’s most celebrated restaurants. But with Titusz (pronounced tee-toos), her first restaurant of her own, she’s stepped fully into the spotlight.
And what an entrance it is.
Csilla Thackray’s Titusz in Lawrenceville is a Hungarian Haven
Located in the former Merchant Oyster Company space in Lawrenceville, Titusz feels instantly welcoming. The downstairs dining room is intimate enough, but the real surprise is upstairs; once reserved for private events, the renovated second floor has become a cozy dining room that feels more like someone’s beautifully appointed home than a restaurant. It’s warm but not precious, and it has a soul (which can be hard to find these days).
Together with her husband, Sean Rosenkrans (who oversees an exceptional beverage program), and general manager, Robert Chaffin (whose hospitality makes every guest feel genuinely cared for), Thackray has created one of Pittsburgh’s most exciting restaurant openings in years.
Now, about the food.
Dining at Titusz
Dinner begins with rye bread and butter. I know that doesn’t sound revolutionary, but reader, it is. It’s light, it’s tender, it has a depth of flavor — and it’s one of the best pieces of bread I’ve eaten in recent memory.
Seasonality drives much of the menu. During my late-spring visit, a plate of crisp radishes arrived nestled into whipped duck-fat butter with fresh scallions. I ate the entire plate myself.
The seasonal pickle plate, featuring beets and ramps, offered bright acidity between richer courses, while the lángos (fried potato bread topped with quark, herb-flecked goat Gouda and fresh herbs) became one of those dishes that typically wouldn’t interest me, but now I can’t imagine skipping.
The chilled sorrel soup was equally memorable, tasting unmistakably of spring (and it reminds you that seasonal dishes matter). If something catches your eye at Titusz, order it. It may not be there next month.
For my entrée, Thackray’s take on the Hungarian classic csirke paprikás was everything comfort food should be. A beautifully braised half chicken rested beneath a deeply savory paprika sauce alongside delicate, house-made noodles, cucumber salad and cool sour cream that balanced every rich bite.
Dessert arrived as violet sorbet, a recommendation I almost passed over. Thankfully, I didn’t. It was delicate and refreshing and surprisingly restrained, and it showcased floral notes without ever becoming perfumed.
The beverage program deserves equal praise. Cocktails are inventive without trying too hard (my Disco Ricky, with white wine, pineapple, ginger and a Midori-cucumber foam, was a standout), while the thoughtful nonalcoholic offerings and carefully selected wine list make it clear that every detail has been considered.
Titusz doesn’t feel like a restaurant that’s finding its footing, but rather one in the hands of a chef who has been waiting for exactly the right moment to tell her own story. Now that she has, Pittsburgh is lucky enough to have a seat at her table.
Story by Emily Catalano
About the Photographer
Dave Bryce is Shady Ave and TABLE Magazine’s contributing architecture, interiors, and food photographer, based in Pittsburgh. He photographed Fallingwater: Living With and In Art (Rizzoli, 2025) and regularly shoots for Pittsburgh Magazine and American Farmhouse Style, working with architects, interior designers, and hospitality brands. See more at davebrycephotography.com.