Chef Minh Luong brings sizzling steak and eggs, Vietnamese cold cuts and regional noodle dishes to BéLa, a new East Liberty restaurant with a full bar.
Combining Popular Dishes and Vietnamese Traditions at BéLa in East Liberty
The bread arrives beside the sizzling skillet, ready to be dipped into golden egg yolks and soak up juices from the steak. BéLa’s bò né combines ribeye, two fried eggs, pork liver pâté, tomatoes and scallions in a Vietnamese steak-and-egg dish whose name offers a warning: “dodge the beef,” a reference to the hot oil that can spit from the pan.
It is one of two dishes chef Minh Luong recommends to anyone visiting his East Liberty restaurant for the first time. The other is the hot stone phở bowl.
“They best represent who we are,” he says.
Pittsburgh diners may already know Luong’s cooking from Tan Lac Vien in Squirrel Hill and its second location at Novo Asian Food Hall in the Strip District. BéLa, which opened in June, brings familiar dishes from those kitchens together with more personal choices. “We kept the favorites people know us for and added dishes that reflect what we cook at home,” he says.
Pittsburgh via Saigon — By Way of New York and L.A.
Luong’s Pittsburgh career began in 2012, when he moved from New York to work at Tan Lac Vien. A Saigon native who grew up in Orange County, California, he purchased the restaurant from its original owners, Thy and Steve Ngo, in 2017.
At BéLa, he wanted a room where people would feel comfortable spending an evening — and can enjoy home-style, made-from-scratch, regional Vietnamese cooking. The restaurant occupies the former Blue Sky Kitchen and Bar space at 211 North Whitfield Street, on the ground floor of 211 Tower. A broad, arched window overlooks the street, with smaller tables tucked beside the glass. Wooden furniture, woven pendant lights and plants soften the exposed pipes overhead. Painted conical hats and framed pictures line the walls; a yellow Suzuki motorcycle is parked near the entrance.
East Liberty’s diverse community drew him to the neighborhood, Luong says. He describes the room as modern, warm and welcoming, arranged so guests can “sit together and take their time.” The name BéLa, he says, expresses love and care.
“We want every guest to feel welcomed and cared for like family,” he says.
Meat Dishes Shine — But Great Vegetarian and Vegan Options Stand Out, Too
Several dishes lend themselves to that kind of gathering. A Vietnamese cold-cut board for two includes five meats, house-made pork liver pâté, butter and sliced baguette. Meats are also available individually, including steamed and fried pork rolls, cinnamon-seasoned pork and head cheese.
For diners accustomed to finding these meats layered inside bánh mì, the board lets each preparation stand on its own. Chả lụa is traditionally made from finely worked pork paste, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. Chả quế is seasoned with cinnamon and baked or roasted. Ordering a few together offers a chance to compare their textures and seasonings between pieces of bread.
The menu also includes bánh khọt, small shrimp-topped savory pancakes associated with the coastal city of Vũng Tàu. Traditionally cooked in individual molds, they are eaten with lettuce, herbs and fish sauce.
Noodles take several forms. Alongside phở is mì khô, dry egg noodles with seafood and roast pork, accompanied by wonton soup served separately. Vegan diners have phở, rice and noodle bowls, while bánh mì is available at lunch.
The bar completes Luong’s plans for the restaurant.
“It creates a more social atmosphere where guests can enjoy a full evening,” he says, “dining, drinking, and gathering together. Vietnamese food is all about sitting together and taking your time.”
Story by Aakanksha Agarwal
Photos Courtesy of BéLa